15 June 2026

Watches

Steinhart Nav B-Uhr 44 Automatic (B-Type)

A classic “Flieger” design inspired by historical aviation watches. This is an original version with a Swiss ETA movement (not the newer Sellita).
  • Original pilot (Flieger) design – maximum readability, large dial
  • Swiss ETA 2824 élaboré automatic movement – reliable, very accurate, proven quality
  • Automatic (self-winding) – powered by wrist movement

Case

  • Materials: Titanium, Stainless Steel
  • Glass: Sapphire crystal – high scratch resistance
  • Solid stainless steel construction
  • SuperLuminova – excellent readability in the dark
  • Back: Closed
  • Shape: Round
  • Diameter: 44.00 mm
  • Height: 14.20 mm
  • Lug Width: 22.00 mm
  • W/R: 30.00 m

Dial

  • Colour: Black
  • Indexes: Arabic N
Pilot watches enjoy a wide popularity and not only because of the reduced dial and the large hands, that ensure maximum readability. Almost all of today's pilot watches are based on the design of the so-called observer watches that were part of the equipment of every navigation officer belonging to a German Air Force crew during World War II. The Nav B-Uhr II Vintage Titanium is a technically contemporary interpretation by Steinhart, with very close visual resemblance to the original. While numerals, hands and crown quote history in a very authentic way, size, shape and material of the Nav B-Uhr II Vintage Titanium, as well as the Swiss technology, are located in the present. The also historically influenced engravings on the titanium case as well as on the stainless steel case back, complete the harmonious picture of this homage.

The watch has a very authentic feel – clean, technical design without unnecessary elements. A great choice for someone who wants large, highly legible, timeless watches with a real connection to aviation history.

Advantage of this version: ETA movement, which is no longer commonly used in newer models.

Steinhart - T0214 Ocean 44 GMT Blue - Red

  • Brand: Steinhart
  • Family: Diver
  • Reference: T0214
  • Name: Ocean 44 GMT Blue - Red
  • Movement: ETA caliber 2893-2 Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Additional 24 Hour Hand (adjustable) | Date
  • Limited: No

Case

  • Material: Stainless Steel
  • Bezel: Rotating, 0-60 (Dive)
  • Glass: Sapphire
  • Back: Closed
  • Shape: Round
  • Diameter: 44.00 mm
  • Height: 13.60 mm
  • Lug Width: 22.00 mm
  • W/R: 300.00 m

Dial

  • Colour: Black
  • Indexes: Stick / Dot
  • Hands: Mercedes

Description

The new Ocean Forty-Four GMT blue-red is our modern interpretation of a classic design, whose massive processing is a guarantee for high durability and superior quality. It will master any occasion and knows to impress with such sophisticated detailing as the sapphire crystal bezel inlay and a finely engraved Rehaut. In the world of sports watches, this is one of the very few examples in its price range which demonstrates such an excellent cost-performance ratio.

Steinhart - F0310 Nav B-Uhr 44 Vintage TITANIUM A-Type

  • Brand: Steinhart
  • Family: Pilot
  • Reference: F0310
  • Name: Nav B-Uhr 44 Vintage TITANIUM A-Type
  • Movement: ETA caliber 2824-2 Hours, Minutes, Seconds | Date
  • Limited: No

Case

  • Materials: Titanium, Stainless Steel
  • Glass: Sapphire
  • Back: Closed
  • Shape: Round
  • Diameter: 44.00 mm
  • Height: 14.20 mm
  • Lug Width: 22.00 mm
  • W/R: 30.00 m

Dial

  • Color: Black
  • Indexes: Arabic Numerals
  • Hands: Sword
  • Steinhart F0310: Nav B-Uhr 44 Vintage TITANIUM A-Type

Description

Pilot watches enjoy a wide popularity and not only because of the reduced dial and the large hands, that ensure maximum readability. Almost all of today's pilot watches are based on the design of the so-called observer watches that were part of the equipment of every navigation officer belonging to a German Air Force crew during World War II. The Nav B-Uhr II Vintage Titanium is a technically contemporary interpretation by Steinhart, with very close visual resemblance to the original. While numerals, hands and crown quote history in a very authentic way, size, shape and material of the Nav B-Uhr II Vintage Titanium, as well as the Swiss technology, are located in the present. The also historically influenced engravings on the titanium case as well as on the stainless steel case back, complete the harmonious picture of this homage.

01 October 2025

Rickenbacker 360/6v64 - FireGlo

 

Background

Rickenbacker are an historic American guitar company with a long history of innovation and unique features:
  • first electric guitar;
  • neck through body designs;
  • unique 12 string headstock design with 12 tuning keys but the same size as a regular six string headstock;
  • sloping ramp for mounting the string tailpiece and increasing the break angle over the bridge;
  • twin/replaceable truss rods.
While Rickenbacker may never have achieved the mass production volume or wide appeal of the industry leaders, Fender or Gibson, they have carved out a niche as to go-to jangle electric-folk guitar attracting an A-list of artists including:
  • George Harrison, John Lennon & Paul McCartney (The Beatles);
  • Pete Townshend (The Who);
  • Roger McGuinn (The Byrds);
  • Peter Buck (REM);
  • Paul Weller (the Jam);
  • Susanna Hoffs (The Bangles);
  • Tom Petty;
  • Robert Smith (The Cure) and
  • Johnny Marr (The Smiths).
The first full-scale, semi-acoustic Capri models were introduced in 1958. Standard models (33x-34x) featured non-bound neck/body with dot fret markers while deluxe models (36x-37x) had a bound neck/body and triangular fret markers. Later in 1958 the split-level pick-guard was introduced and optional Rick-O-Sound double output jacks were available from summer 1960 (initially introduced on the 460 model). The Capri was significantly upgraded in 1961 with:
  • reduced waist size by 2";
  • changed headstock and body shapes;
  • reduced body thickness from 2" to 1 ½";
  • implementation of twin truss rods;
  • added pickup mixer/blend pot was added to the control panel layout.
During 1964 a New-Style (NS) or round body design was introduced for the deluxe 36x-37x models. The 33x-34x models retained the Old-Style (OS) body. While the deluxe model 360x-37x's were predominately NS bodies from 1964 OS body deluxe 36x-37x guitars could be custom ordered through to the early '70s. Indeed, the OS body served as the basis for the 381 (German) carved top Capri available 1958-1968.

George Harrison's 360

On 8th February 1964 at the Savoy Hotel, F.C. Hall presented the Beatles (sans George, who remained in his hotel room with a throat infection) a number of Rickenbacker products. John said he'd like George Harrison to hear the 12 string guitar. So, F.C. Hall walked across Central Park with John to present the 2nd prototype 12 string guitar to George in his hotel room. George's 360/12 prototype differs from both the 1964 US production OS 360s and the UK Rose-Morris 1993 model (with dot-inlays and f-shaped sound hole): 
  • OS body with white plastic split-level pick-guard vs NS body;
  • Dual mono outputs (rather than single mono or stereo Rick-O-Sound;
  • KK knobs and;
  • Older rectangle Trapeze tailpiece vs. R-Tailpieces.
Very few guitars were made with the features of George's guitar (Garry Marsden is one example with the same features). It's possible to re-configure a US OS 360 to match the features of George's guitar but that doesn't seem to be a popular option.

Rickenbacker Production Expansion

Riding the popularity of the Beatles, Rickenbacker decided to increase production and moved to a larger factory, expanding production to meet new demand. However, the times were really changing. Eric Clapton, Jimi Hendrix et. al. popularised a heavier guitar sound better played on Fender and Gibson guitars. The bright, jangly sound of the Rickenbacker was out of favour, somewhat mirroring the fall of electric 12 string popularity. While not the dominant guitar maker the early 60s popularity might have predicted, Rickenbacker went on to become a niche guitar for artists wanting that distinctive Rickenbacker sound. Rickenbacker still sell every guitar they make and maintain an orders 12 month advance orders for their guitars.

Reissues

In 1990, George's 12 string 360 prototype was released as a vintage re-issue, the 360/12v64 along with a 6 string variant, the 360/6v64, (presumably for guitars who like the 12 string features but in 6 string format, i.e. me). The 360/12v64 remains in production while the 6 string variant was dropped after the initial production run 1991-2000. A 12 string George Harrison reissue is now available as the 360c63 with 6 string variant available in small numbers from time to time.

Do I need a Rickenbacker?

Like all guitarists that remember the '60s, I'm aware of the unique Rickenbacker sound and famous musician associations. While I had little awareness of the brand's history or products, I did know when features I like:
  • 6 string OS 360 body;
  • Double edge bound body;
  • Bound neck;
  • FireGlo finish;
  • Rick-O-Sound;
  • Small push-thru style (rather than bolt on) Kluson™ tuners;
  • R-tailpiece;
  • Triangular fret markers.
Rickenbacker doesn't currently make production models with these features but the 360/6v64 is close. A friend was selling his 360/6v64 and I shouldn't have played his guitar. I couldn't help myself.

Observations

This 360/6v64 is serial number L84494 (December 1995) with these features:
  • Body Type: Semi-Acoustic
  • No. Frets: 21
  • Scale Length: 62.9 cm (24 ¾”)
  • Neck Width at Nut: 41.4 mm (1.63”)
  • Neck Width at 12th Fret: 49.05 mm (1.931”)
  • Crown Radius: 25.4 cm (10”)
  • Body Wood: Maple
  • Neck Wood: Maple & Walnut
  • Fingerboard Wood: Rosewood
  • Weight: 3.259 kg (7.18 lbs.)
  • Overall Length: 100.3 cm (39 ½”)
  • Width (lower bout): 38.1 cm (15”)
  • Width (upper bout): 30.1 cm (11.8”)
  • Waist: 26 cm (10.2")
  • Overall Depth: 38.1 mm (1 ½”)
  • Neck Binding: Yes
  • Fret Marker Style: Triangle
  • Tailpiece: Trapeze
  • Bridge: 6 Saddle
  • Neck Type: Set-in
  • No. of Pickups: 2
  • Type of Pickups: Vintage Single Coil Toaster Top™
  • Output Type: Parallel Mono
  • Neck Position: 10,480 Ω
  • Neck/Bridge Position: 5,560 Ω
  • Bridge Position: 10,590 Ω
  • Machine Heads: RIC Deluxe

Sounds

While, not really suited for aggressive blues or rock it's a good match for lighter material where the jangle really cuts through. The guitar goes well with most of my pedals (including a bit of overdrive).

The bridge pickup is the distinctive bright, jangly sound. Great with a mild overdrive. The middle position is a good place to for rhythm giving with a change up for brighter more aggressive sounds for song bridges or lead. The neck is good for more acoustic/jazz styles.

The four volume/tone controls are easy to understand but not in the same arrangement as on a Gibson. The mixer/blend control seems redundant as the same neck and middle position volume can be set using the neck volume but as usual Rickenbacker do it their unique way.

One surprising departure of the vintage reissue is the “hotter” (10k) toaster pickups introduced in the late 60s. I’m not familiar with original “scatter-wound” lower resistance pickups but believe the newer pickups are slightly hotter and maybe slightly less bright.

Action, Fit and Finish

The guitar was setup with heavier strings and higher action than I prefer, so some adjustments were needed. Many guitarists remark that Rickenbacker's are hard guitars to play due to the thin neck and small frets. However, I have found the neck not uncomfortable. The low frets make it easy to play chords but more difficult for string bends. The guitar is in excellent, although not mint condition for a 30 year old guitar. 

Reliability/Durability

Hard to say but it's lasted over thirty years without issues, so, construction seems solid and the ability to change truss rods is to my knowledge unique in the guitar industry.

Customer Support

There are no official dealers in Australia however a few retailers in do offer Rickenbacker guitars. It's not clear where those retailers source guitars but the offical Rickenbacker web site notes Asian (which I guess includes Australia) sales are distributed by the Rickenbacker Asia Network in Japan. It's not clear how warranty or service repairs would be performed in Australia.

Overall

Everything about having a Rickenbacker and this guitar has been a learning experience with many features not found on other guitars:
  • Twin truss rods that can be replaced without removing the fingerboard;
  • Four screw bridge height adjustment;
  • Routed maple body;
  • Laminated maple neck;
  • Two tier pick guard;
  • “Toaster” pickups with more accurate appearance (although still hotter than an original 64 model 360 and;
  • Blend control.
While the 360/6v64 preserves the 360/12v64 build features I would have preferred an R-tailpiece, bound sound hole and “Rick-o-sound” wiring. The Parallel Mono outputs add some redundancy but no utility. I guess this was wired to allow connect to multiple amplifiers.

I do like the distinctive sound of the guitar. It fits well with the kind of music I play. The guitar neck is thin and the frets small but is surprisingly easy to play.

Sale Description

Up for grabs is an exemplary Rickenbacker 360V64 in a stunning Fireglo finish. This beauty comes complete with its original grey rectangular hard-case, featuring a blue plush interior, along with the original paperwork and a Rickenbacker-branded Levy black leather strap.

Rickenbacker, a family-run business based in Santa Ana, California, USA, is renowned for its exceptional quality, distinctive appearance, and, of course, its signature sound. The 330/12 model is a prime illustration of their craftsmanship and is a stunning example. 

In terms of condition, our Rickenbacker is in excellent shape, maintaining a clean appearance with minimal wear for its age. The striking “Fireglo” lacquer finish displays only a few light surface scratches and some typical clouding commonly seen in nitrocellulose finishes. Overall, it remains exceptionally well-preserved with no breaks or repairs. The neck and fretboard are in outstanding condition, providing a smooth, uninterrupted playing experience with ample life remaining in the frets. All chrome and nickel hardware operates flawlessly, and the electronics function seamlessly as intended. Additionally, the “Made in America” foil sticker remains intact.

The “Toaster” pickups, wound hotter than the later reissues, provide an abundance of sparkle, articulation, and the signature chime, delivering that classic Rickenbacker jangle. 

This one weighs in at 6.82 lbs. 
(I measure 7.12 lbs)

It’s been expertly cleaned and setup by Ben of Beej Guitar Repairs with a fresh set of 10-46 strings.
  • Listed: 10 months ago
  • Condition: Excellent (Used). Excellent items are almost entirely free from blemishes and other visual defects and have been played or used with the utmost care.
  • Brand: Rickenbacker
  • Model: 360V64
  • Finish: Fireglo
  • Categories: Semi-Hollow
  • Serial Number: L84494 (1987–1996 number scheme)
  • Made In: United States
  • Fretboard Material: Rosewood
  • Body Material: Maple
  • Pickup Configuration: SS
  • Neck Construction: Set-Neck
  • Body Shape: Double Cutaway
  • Right/Left Handed: Right Handed
  • Body Type: Semi-Hollow Body
  • Number of Strings: 6-String
  • Neck Material: Maple
  • Offset Body: Non-Offset Body
  • Finish Pattern: Sunburst
  • Color Family: Red
  • Model Sub-Family: Rickenbacker 360V64
  • Model Family: Rickenbacker 360
  • Finish Style: Gloss
  • Series: Rickenbacker 300 Series
  • Bridge/Tailpiece Type: Stop-Bar
  • Finish Features: Matching Headstock
  • Number of Frets: 21
Includes OHSC, Paperwork & Case Candy

16 April 2025

Fixing blocking distortion on Fender Princeton

Distortion of the unwanted kind can really kill your buzz. Here, Rift Amplification head honcho Chris Fantana explains what blocking distortion is and how you get rid of it.


Hi Chris, I’ve recently noticed that my 1958 Fender Deluxe has a nasty, ugly distortion when I push it hard. Turning down the amplifier does make it go away, and the louder the amp, the worse it gets, and it kinda cuts in and out. I have replaced all valves with new versions and it was recapped a few years back. Any ideas?

– Kai, Belgium

Hi Kai, Sorry to hear about this, it is a very unpleasant noise but thankfully I may have a solution. That awful distortion that appears when your amplifier is driven hard is most likely something called blocking distortion, a phenomenon that occurs when the control grid of a valve is driven to the point of conduction. It normally appears to cut in and out and sits on top of the guitar signal, rather than being a part of it.

To keep things simple to understand and not wanting to go into technical jargon, you have done nothing more than overdrive the valve by too much, and it is now crying out, “No more, please!”. If you’ve ever plugged a music player into a hifi and turned the input level up too far, you’ll be familiar with the sound.

Usually in a tweed Fender amplifier, blocking distortion occurs in the output valves and can be fixed by a combination of coupling capacitor value reduction, and grid-stopper valve increase. However, as your amplifier is a Deluxe model, the problem will be coming not from the 6V6 output valves, but from the cathodyne phase-inverter instead.

How do I know this? Because it is a frightfully common issue with both black-panel Princeton Reverbs and 1950s Tweed Deluxes, which also use that phase inverter circuit. The problem is that Fender didn’t use a grid-stopper on the control grid of their cathodyne PIs, despite all of the technical books saying that you should for this very reason. Whether this was deliberate or simply an oversight I cannot say. But thankfully, adding one to the amplifier is very easy and can be reversed if required.

Figure one shows the stock Fender phase-inverter circuit for both the Princeton Reverb and 5E3 Tweed Deluxe, and figure two is the modified version with a 470k resistor sitting between the 22nf capacitor and the valve’s control grid.

Simply unsolder the wire attached to pin seven of V4 and insert a 470k 1/2w resistor in between, with one end of the resistor soldered to the socket pin, and the other to the wire. That’s it, done. I prefer to leave the wire as it is rather than snipping short, in case the modification needs to be reversed.

So what have we done? By adding this extra resistor we are limiting the peak current flow into the valve from the source – in this case, the previous gain stage – allowing the PI to be driven hard but without going over its limit. There is zero tonal change here too, so the mod is undetectable.

For owners of Princeton Reverbs, I highly recommend adding a 470k grid-stopper to the 12AT7 reverb-driver valve (V2), for this fixes several noise issues with that circuit.

As always, if you’re poking around inside a valve amplifier please be careful. Follow simple safety steps such as unplugging it from the wall first, measuring and discharging the high-voltage capacitors, and taking your time. If you’re unsure how to do this, your local tech will be able to help.

31 March 2025

Fender '65 Princeton® Reverb

The "Blackface" Fender Princeton Reverb is a legendary amplifier revered by studio musicians around the world. The form factor, weight and features are an excellent match against my requirements but I have baulked at buying the Princeton Reverb viewing it as poor value for money costing almost as much as a Deluxe Reverb with a lower design specification. My Chris Stapleton '62 reissue Princeton got me rethinking... 

Fender advertising

Summary

A historically significant amp used on countless hit songs for decades. Today, the '65 Princeton Reverb is as phenomenal looking, sounding and performing as ever, and is easily versatile enough to go from the living room to the recording studio to the gig with the great sound, style, reliability and authentic vintage vibe that Fender players know and love. One of the coolest amps around, period, it's ideal for anyone who demands top-notch tube tone, naturally dynamic clean and overdriven sound, and unmistakable long-spring Fender reverb and tube vibrato. 

Features

  • 12 watts
  • 10" Jensen® C10R speaker
  • Single channel and dual inputs
  • Long-spring Fender reverb and tube tremolo ("vibrato")
  • Classic Fender look
  • Fitted cover and two-button foot-switch included

Specs

Accessories

  • Foot-switch: 2-Button Vintage Style (Reverb On/Off, Vibrato On/Off), P/N: 0994058000 (Included)

Electronics

  • Channels: One
  • Connection Type: ¼"
  • Control Panel: Volume, Treble, Bass, Reverb, Speed, Intensity
  • Controls: Volume, Treble, Bass, Reverb, Speed, Intensity
  • Effects: Reverb, Vibrato
  • Effects Loop: NA
  • Inputs: Two - (1/4", Input 2 operates at -6dB)
  • Wattage: 12 Watts

General

  • Amplifier Type: Tube
  • Colour: Black and Silver
  • Platform: Pro Tube
  • Product Name: '65 Princeton® Reverb, 240V AUS
  • Series: American Vintage

Hardware

  • Amplifier Covering: Black Textured Vinyl
  • Amplifier Jewel: Red Jewel
  • Cabinet Material: Birch Plywood
  • Control Knobs: Vintage-Style Skirted Black Plastic
  • Front Panel: Black
  • Grille Cloth: Silver
  • Handle: Moulded Plastic Strap with Nickel-Plated Caps
  • Rear Control Panel: Power
  • Reverb Tank: 4-Spring, 8 ohm Spring Reverb Unit 4AB3C1B (p/n 0064063049)
  • Speaker Jack: Two 1/4" Parallel (Internal and External)

Measurements

  • Depth: 9.5" (24.13 cm)
  • Height: 16" (40.6 cm)
  • Width: 19.875" (50.5 cm)
  • Weight: 31 lb (14.1 kg)
  • Weight with Replacement Speaker: 35.38 lb (16.05 kg)

Miscellaneous

  • Commodity Code: 8518.40.2000
  • Power Cable: IEC

Original Speaker

  • Speaker: 1 x 10" Jensen® C10R with Ceramic Magnet
  • Total Impedance: 8 ohms
  • Rated Power: 25 watts
  • Weight: 2.65 lb (1.2 kg)

Replacement Speaker

  • Speaker: 1 x 10" WGS G10C/S with Ceramic Magnet
  • Total Impedance: 8 ohms
  • Rated Power: 75 watts
  • Weight: 7.09 lb (3.2 kg)

Tubes

  • Power Tubes: 2 x 6V6
  • Preamp Tubes: 3 x 12AX7, 1 x 12AT7
  • Rectifier Tube: 1 x 5AR4

Price

  • $2599 RRP, purchased for $2199

Highlights



Tube circuitry

Simply put, there’s really nothing quite like the pure, powerful sound of a Fender tube amplifier. For decades, the tonal richness and touch-sensitive dynamics of real tubes have given Fender amps a defining and unmistakable voice, as heard on most professional recordings and performances of the past 60 years—the music you’ve known your whole life.

Spring reverb

Among their many fine sonic attributes, Fender guitar amps like this one are prized in particular for their luscious spring reverb. For that wet, shimmering ambient sound ranging from subtle to cavernous, Fender lets you dial it in exactly to taste.


Tremolo

Rich, pulsating tremolo in any shade from subtle to stupendous is simply part of Fender’s guitar-amp DNA. Always has been and always will be.


Classic Fender® tone

Heard on countless recordings, this is the fantastic sparkling-clean sound, warm breakup when pushed, and cavernous reverb of Fender’s famous amps of the early 1960s and subsequent decades, prized by guitarists everywhere.


Assembled in the U.S.A.

Just like the great Fender guitar amps of the 1950s and ’60s that founded our amp legacy and defined the essence of pure tone and power, this amplifier is assembled in the United States.


Jensen® speaker

Jensen® and Fender go way back—to the very beginning, in fact. Jensen® speakers are the traditional Fender speakers, with sweet articulation for clean sounds and cool vintage-style breakup when pushed.




Review

The black face Princeton Reverb (AA1164) was introduced in 1964. Electronically, the circuit is descendent from the brown-face GC2 (which in turn was descendent from the tweed Vibrolux (5E11-5F11). Major differences between the GC2 and AA1164 Princetons are:

  • Reverb circuitry;
  • Difference tone stack;
  • Extra 3rd gain stage before phase inverter;
  • Higher voltages;
  • Changed / added resistors and capacitors.
The Fender '65 Princeton Reverb Reissue (PRRI) was introduced in 2009, a surprisingly late release given the popularity of the reissues series e.g. the '65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue introduced in 1993.

The PBC based PRRI 'approximates' the hand-wired board AA1164 model with some variations:
  • 12AX7s replace 7025s;
  • Grid stoppers, screen and cathode load resistors on the power tubes;
  • Flyback diodes across: heater supply, output transformer and power tube cathode loads and;
  • Bias adjustment with zener diode protection

Deluxe Reverb vs. Princeton

Historically, I have not been that interested in the Princeton, costing almost the same as a DRRI and lesser design features. After getting a Chris Stapleton Princeton (i.e. brown-face '62 Princeton reissue), I appreciated the role of the Princeton in rock/recording history and along with ongoing recommendations from player developed an interest in the Blackface Princeton Reverb.

The differences between the Deluxe Reverb and Princeton are:

Differences

Deluxe Reverb (DRRI)

Princeton (PRRI)

Wattage

22W

12W

Dimensions (H x D x W)

17.5” x 9.5” x 24.5”

16” x 9.5” x 19.875”

Weight

42 lbs

31 lbs

Speaker

12"

10"

Channels

2

1

Pre-amp tubes 

4 x 12AX7, 2 X 12AT

3 x 12AX7, 1 x 12AT7

Price $AU (2025)

$3099.00

$2699


Major differences between the Princeton Reverb (PRRI) vs Deluxe Reverb (DRRI) Reissues:

  • 10" vs 12" speaker: I had reservations about a 10" speaker. would it be too small? Would the output be weak or boy? A 12" speaker upgrade is a popular mod and some US retailers upgrade even sell new Princeton Reverbs with a 12" speaker. However, amp tech guys say the cabinet is too small for a 12" (makes the amp sound "boxy"). The 10" speaker is part of the Princeton vibe and there is always the option of using a 12" as an extension speaker;
  • Single Channel: The DRRI has two channels Normal and Vibrato (tremolo). 99% of the time I only use the Vibrato channel on the DRRI so using the equivalent input on the PRRI is not an issue; 
  • Phase Inverter: The Princeton phase inverter is implemented using Cathodyne circuit reflecting the design evolution Tweed Vibrolux (5E11-5F11) → Brownface Princeton GC2 → AA1164 Princeton Reverb. It's a simpler circuit than long-tail pair but produces less gain than the long-tailed pair used in the DRRI which accounts for the 12W (PRRI) vs 22W (DRRI) power output;
  • Tremolo Circuit: The PRRI uses a Bias Wiggle circuit. This modulates the power tube bias creating the tremolo effect. The DRRI has a dedicated tremolo circuit that modulates the guitar signal being on the receive side of the phase inverter. Again, the PRRI design reflects it's  Tweed Vibrolux/Tremolux heritage;
  • Price: Given the lower design spec or more accurately, a design reflecting the evolution of the PRRI, the amp might seem over-priced compared to the DRRI. I now view the PRRI and DRRI as two different amps with similar build costs rather than the DRRI being an upscale version of the PRRI.

Implications:

  • Lower wattage/volume: The wattage and cabinet size of the Princeton create an amp less shouty than the DRRI and more appropriate for small venues/studios;
  • Lower Headroom: It can get a bit of growl live, although there's not much clean headroom and might struggle to be heard over a loud drummer;
  • Smaller speaker size: 10" produces less overall projection than a 12" speaker;
  • Less weight: The weight reduction is welcome - even a DRRI seems heavy;
  • Only one channel: Having only one channel is not an issue. I only use the vibrato channel on my DRRI.
  • Lower spec phase inverter: Cathodyne phase inverter (vs the DRRI push-pull) produces a slightly different/uneven sound breakup;
  • Vibrato design: Deeper bias wiggle tremolo.

Features:

As per AA1164

Sounds:

Before Internet (BI) I/we tended to buy/aspire towards kit the tock stars used e.g. Jimi/Eric used Strats/Les Pauls & Marshalls. Therefore I need that kit to get that sound. It's taken years to realise that that might not be my sound. If only I had been influenced by the Wrecking Crew! 

Twenty two years ago I got back into guitar and started with a hot-rod De-ville and a Fender Twin. Since then I've gone from a Fender Twin with 100 watts to a Fender Princeton with 12 watts.

The Princeton Reverb ’65 has a wonderful 'clean' tone at low volumes. It breaks up early giving a warm overdrive sound at a reasonable volume and overdrives nicely from 4 onwards. There may not be clean head room and might struggle with a loud drummer or a larger live setting but it is perfect for practice, home or studio work. While the 10" speaker doesn't have the presence of a 12", it's the right size for home, studio or small gigs. I can always add a 12" cab, take a larger amp or mic the amp via PA for larger venues.

My Fender Chris Stapleton '62 Princeton which is a hardwired reissue of the GC2 model with 12" speaker. Despite the similarities, the Chris Stapleton '62 Princeton and the Princeton Reverb ’65 sound quite different. It will be interesting to compare and perhaps combine these amplifiers into a wet/dry pair.

The Vibrato intensity control doesn't seem to do much on lower settings with the usable range being 4-10. I may mod the tremolo circuit to provide greater depth and adjustability post warranty.

Reliability: 8

I've had two issues with my Princetons:

During a studio jam about 6 months after purchase. I could smell something burning, the amp began to distort and then I lost all sound. The tubes were "red-platting". I power-cycled the amp (problems never just disappear).  When I got home I opened the chassis to see if there were any obvious problems when I found the following issue ... no ground on the bias pot. I guess the tenuous bias adjustment ground connection was lost during the jam and baked the tubes. I re-soldered the connection. I thought I'd fixed the issue the tubes tested ok and the amp played well at home. However, the power tubes "red-plated" again back in the studio with lots of cracking, popping and distortion. Back at home I found the bias level was way too hot, maybe the intensity pot was cooked due to the faulty bias wiring. The amp was still under warranty, so I returned the amp for warranty repair. Surprisingly, Fender sent me a new replacement amp. 



After the previous amp I opened the amp to confirm all connections were good. I should have checked the speaker wiring? While the amp wiring looked good. I found the replacement overly bright, my tone settings5were treble
=3-4 and Bass=7-8. I couldn't remember the tone from the original amp thought it was due to the bright Princeton tone and the low spec standard speaker. So, I bought forward one of my Future Reliability Improvements (below) and replaced the standard speaker with a WGS 10" G10C/S - 75 watt. While installing the new speaker I noted that the speaker was connected in reverse polarity. This explains the poor tone definition! Maybe the standard speaker was a serviceable option.

Both faults are indicative of poor quality control. Both faults should have been picked up during factory QA. I don't think this fault is indicative of the design and expect reliability to be pretty good over the lifetime of the amp.

Future Reliability Improvements

In any case I will do some mods to improve the sound the warranty expires to improve sound/reliability:

  • Filter Caps: Replace;
  • Heater Supply: Move off the PCB;
  • Screen Resistors: Move off the PCB;
  • Modify 1st Gain Stage: Replace 1st stage bypass cap (C18) with 1-2.2 µfs;
  • Modify Tremolo Circuit: Replace R14 1M with 470K to improve tremolo intensity. Replace C21 .01 with .022 to give a slower minimum speed;
  • Protect bias supply: Install 2 meg resistor between lugs 1 and 2 of the intensity pot (R24) so power stage will still have a bias if the intensity pot fails;
  • Reduce blocking distortion: Adding a 470k 1/2w grid-stopper between the coupling capacitor and pin 4 of V4b and maybe add a grid-stopper to the input to the 12AT7 reverb-driver valve (V2);
  • Rewire Power Tubes: Rewire cathode wiring loops on power tubes;
  • Speaker: Replace the existing Jensen C10R (2.65 lbs.) with 10" WGS speaker:
    • ET10: 65 watts, 6 lbs, 10" version of the the ET65 I installed in my DRRI, great option but British voicing;
    • Veteran: 20 watts, 3 lbs. Underpowered for Princeton;
    • G10C/S: 75 watt, 7.01 lbs, heavy but American voiced speaker with the regular G10C being the recommendation of the amp cognoscenti;
  • Speaker lead: Replace speaker lead and plug;
  • Reverb: Replace reverb leads.

Customer Support: 10

I bought the amp closed box, checked the amp in the shop but not all the accessories. While unboxing found the amp was shipped with a Fender Deluxe Reverb '65 cover! The retailer swapped cover from another amp they had in stock.

As noted above the amp failed after 6 months and was returned to the store for warranty repairs. The return notification mail said the amp might take up to 1 month to repair with any repair marked "Urgent" if in for repair longer than 1 months. I was subsequently surprised to receive a mail three business days later saying my amp was ready to pickup. I was nervous that the tech or shop had plugged it in and found no fault however, I was delight to find that the shop had decided to replace my daily amp with a new one. Unfortunately the replacement amp speaker was wired reverse polarity spoiling the sonic experience until I replaced the standard speaker. Great customer support but spoiled by poor build QA.

Overall Rating: 9

Like the Bassman and '65 Deluxe Reverb Reissues (DRRI), Fender have gone to some effort in recreating a modern PCB re-issues of the original amp while keeping a reasonable price point and reliability. Fender also produce hand-wired versions of the Deluxe Reverb and Princeton Reverb. They don't have a good reputation with amp techs with both hand-wired amps being viewed as inferior to their PCB cousins (let alone the original models). While the hand wired '64 Princeton Reverb is not in need of major modifications like the '64 Custom Deluxe Reverb the Princeton transformer has been noted as being under sized for the job.

Great sound for home, studio, small stages and lightweight. In fact the PRRI seems lighter and more usable (lower volumes) than my Chris Stapleton '62 Princeton, perhaps due to the 10” rather than 12” speaker.


Despite my historic reservations about the Fender Princeton I have found it to be my #1 go to amp! It ain't perfect but it's close.

21 January 2025

Guitar Maintenance, Repairs and Modifications

I think (hope?) I've bottomed out my desire for guitars. What I have, more than covers what I need (although I still check out for sale guitars like an idiot). All my guitars are (finally) well setup, so I'm in maintenance mode now (strings, frets and setups). How I got here has been "interesting". A few guitars played well from day one. Others  needed major setup/parts replacement/modifications to address issues or enhance performance. 

1974 Fender Stratocaster (purchased in 1978):

I purchased my long time dream of getting a white Strat. At the time I thought a 1974 Strat was just like Jimi's. I was to learn there there were many differences: 3 bolt neck, poly finish, thinner neck width, etc. In addition I was a heavy guitar, Didn't sound like a traditional Strat (which I thought was a good thing) and it wouldn't stay in tune.  and it is heavy. I nearly routed it for humbuckers, brass nut but fortunately only installed Schaller tuners before giving up playing for 20 years.
  • Schaller Tuners: A good option but the guitar probably only needed a good setup. I thought so little of the original tuners that I left them with the luthier :(
  • Re-fret and PLEK: I bought a few guitars when I got back into playing. I was getting some work done at guitar setup place and they said the frets need replacement so I got a re-fret and PLEK. The guitar played great.
  • Fender '70s re-issue tuners: I then decided to return the guitar to standard trim. I thought re-issue tuners were exact copies of originals. Wrong and the guy that installed them butchered the enlarging the tuner holes. Fortunately, the tuner bushings covered his handy work.
  • Fender 67-75 vintage tuners: I was disappointed with the re-issue tuners so sourced some originals. I also need some enlarged bushing to cover enlarged tuner holes.
Lots of lessons here but I didn't know any better at the time. Removing one string tree improved tuning stability and grey bottom Strat pickups are lower output and brighter. Not a bad thing as increase amp volume usually warms the output.

    1965 Fender XII purchased in 2006

    • No alterations

    2004 Gibson Hummingbird purchased in 2006

    • Lowered bridge

    2007 Gibson '59 Les Paul Standard Re-issue purchased in 2009

    The '59 Sunburst is most sought vintage guitar(thanks Eric). It's not the most expensive or rarest but has a history can't be beat. I couldn't afford a real '59 so bought the next best thing. It's close with Gibson strangely claiming that every new year gets closer... Experts can tell it's not the real deal. Nevertheless it's a well made guitar using many of the original '50s techniques and more select materials, albeit with some modern steps like CNC routing. Out of the box it play well but I didn't like the sound:
    • Pots & Caps: were noisy. I could have returned it for warranty but would loose the guitar while being services and unsure of whether the original Gibson components pots would be replaced or just cleaned. I decided to replace all the electrics with a pre-wired kit from 'RS Guitarworks'.
    • 50s wiring: Strangely, a '59 re-issue used '60s wiring. I implemented '50s wiring when I installed the RS Guitarworks kit. 
    • Control pointers (Thumb bleeders): I used less sharp pointers. The installed pointers were literally thumb-shredders.
    • Control knobs: Like many Gibson guitars the knobs were cracked internally from installation.
    • Faber Bridge: This re-issue included a wired ABR-1 bridge. Not correct for '59 and it buzzed when playing acoustically. I'd been thinking about getting a new bridge for many years. The Faber has a good reputation and the saddles a pre-cut.
    Pre-wired Les Paul upgrade kit
    The wiring looks original and the kit and my connection to it are as good as done by Gibson. The electrics & '50s wiring made it a noticably better sounding guitar. The Faber bridge holds intonation better than the Gibson ABR-1. At 9.2 lbs, the guitar is heavier than many Custom Gibson Les Pauls available today but an average weight for original '59 models.

    2009 Gibson '61 SG Custom Re-issue purchased in 2011

    This guitar has required more work than any other in my collection. It's great now but has taken 13 years for everything to be addressed, especially tuning instability (vibrola) and more tones out of three pickups.
    • Bridge: Original ABR-1, then Tone pros then back to ABR-1 with and finally a Faber which is by far the most stable and sonically pleasing:
    • Saddles: Original, TUSQ, new brass saddles and now Faber;
    • Neck Binding: gaps between the frets and binding nibs. Common problem. Not an issue on the bass side but the high E would catch on the treble side. Luthier somehow moulded the binding to the frets without a gap. No more problems.
    • Vibrola: The geometry of the original Vibrola base spring angled the strings towards the break with no break angle. The strings were nearly flat from the spring over the bridge to the nut. The loose tension and improper tension across the bridge lead to poor tuning stability.
    • 3rd Pickup: I'm not a big fan of the original wiring. Gibson should have done more with three pickups (a la Stratocaster). As described here I went through a few designs before settling on the current setup. In retrospect, I'm just not a fan of the three pickup Gibson.
    Original Wiring
    Original wiring wasn't great. Current setup below.
    Current wiring diagram

    Current Wiring

    2010 Gibson ES 335 '60 Re-issue purchased in 2011

    • Control Knobs: Just cosmetics. Replaced the gold reflectors with black reflectors. Matches the pick guard. Now with gold bonnet knobs, matching the spec of some earlier 1960 ES-335s.

    2012 Gibson SG Standard '61 purchased in 2013

    • No alterations: Always plays well.

    2005 Fender ’64 Jazz Bass Relic purchased in 2015

    • No alterations: Probably should restring it one of these days.

    2015 Fender '62 Stratocaster Relic purchased in 2015

    • Fret levelling: fretting out around the 15 fret.

    2014 Fender '54 Stratocaster NOS purchased in 2017

    • Repaired broken volume knob. The ABS plastic used in the early '50s and today (when Fender use the same plastic on re-issues), is brittle.

    2008 Fender Stratocaster HBS-1 Relic purchased in 2017

    This guitar is a relic'ed relic. Looks like it has had a hard life gigging in Perth.
    • Screws: Lots of screws are burred or rusted. Previous owner must have been a very heavy handed with maintenance and playing.
    • Replaced original with bone nut: The nut was cracked. Again heavy handed/clumsy previous owner.
    • Frets: Needs to be re-fretted. Lots of wear.

    2019 Fender ’65 Telecaster Custom Aged purchased in 2019

    • No alterations: the control knob keeps falling off. Common Telecaster issue. Fitted new control knob.

    1970 Fender Stratocaster purchased in 2020

    The original vintage frets were small to start with and with a subsequent re-dressing played like a fretless wonder. Not good for bending so:
    • Re-fret
    • Bridge setup
    • Neck Angle

    2023 Gibson '57 Les Paul Custom Reissue VOS purchased in 2024

    • No alterations: Early days but everything works well so no though of replacing anything.